SAMVEDANA’S FOURTH PUBLIC AWARENESS PROGRAM


Samvedana Culture & Heritage Trust in collaboration with the India International Centre organized a conference on the 17th & 18th of February 2007 on the revival of the Heritage of Kani Jamavar shawls entitled, ‘Whither The Kani Jamavar Shawl?’ This was the 4th pubic awareness program that our NGO has organized in collaboration with the IIC since Samvedana’s inception on 14 October 2002.

This year the program consisted of two full days of seminars cum workshops with demonstrations during both days with an additional program on Saturday evening followed by a Kashmiri dinner prepared by the IIC for its members and their guests. During the daily programs, the main body of attendees were weavers, dyers. artisans of other skills from Srinagar, officials from related Govt. offices,  members of the KCCI and other business houses from Srinagar, although the general public was invited to all three programs.
On the morning of February 17 the program began with Tea at 9 A.M. followed by the lighting of the Lamp of Learning in the foyer. The lighting was conducted by the Secretary of the IIC, Cmdre. K.N. Venugopal, the IIC administration officer Dr.A.C. Katoch, Samvedana Trustee Shri Arvind Kaul who interacted with the artisans from Srinagar guiding them to the importance of the conference for them, Shri Frank Ames, the author of ‘The Kashmir shawl’, the secretary for the conference, Smt. Sushma Zutshi, Smt Sapna Sharma, the coordinator for the conference appointed by the related J&K Govt Departments and other Samvedana Trustees and members, as the other attendees and artisans gathered around. The foyer was graced by a multi-paneled exhibition showing the work of Samvedana that was produced by Smt. Madhu Singh
Following the lighting of the lamp, the program began in Conference Room I. The Seminar was led by Mr. Frank Ames of New York City, author of ‘The Kashmir Shawl’, who presented the Heritage designs with a projected presentation from his vast collection of images. Ames showed in detail that explained the evolution of Kani designs through the different states and periods of time.
He narrated the beauty of Kashmiri designs in the Kani shawls by showing and pointing out each little break up of the flowers, plants and other parts of the designs as well as the wide range of colours used. He dealt with many other technicalities and the history of design.

Dr. Mubeen Shah, President of the KCCI had earlier got in touch with Samvedana with a reference from the office of the Secretary/Commissioner of Industry and Commerce, JK Govt. He and some of his associates attended our program and showed a keen interest in the proceedings. He graciously translated Ames’ speech thereby effecting a meaningful interaction between the attendees,
There was a tea break at 11:15 with lunch at 1:30.

The afternoon session contained more from Shri Ames and a visual lesson plan with text and images on the improvement of Kani designs in weaving by Samvedana Trustee Smt. Vidhu Ganjoor. She showed in detail that explained to all of the artisans, how best the artisans can improve the designs and weaving using simple techniques that would show an immediate effect. In their many trips to Srinagar, Shri Buzz Burza and Smt. Vidhu Ganjoor have been studying the designs and weaving techniques of the present day Kani shawls being woven in Srinagar. They meticulously worked on a visual presentation to form a lesson plan on very simple methods to use to improve the weaving with immediate effect, The visuals were created with the help of Mahatta Multimedia, namely Shri Dushyant Mehta.

The afternoon program also had a presentation by three designers from the workshops

of Rohit Bal.  They came prepared with 6 sets of designs. Their presentation explained to the artisans that one way for them was to weave Kani that could be used for modern day trends and fashion garments.  It could be combined in export garments or for the internal upscale market as fashionable or chic wear. This idea was totally new for the artisans and Samvedana was glad to see that it has germinated. Smt. Ganjoor explained to the artisans what the designers were trying to put across to them, namely that the Kani weaving can be used not only to create the beautiful shawls but also for fashion garments in smaller and related quantities and numbers. In the next day’s program,. Smt. Vidhu Ganjoor explained to the artisans the impact exporters can have on this ailing industry.

The day’s session concluded at 4:30 PMThe evening session began with Tea at 5:30 followed by the program at 6 PM. The Chief Guest: was Shri Haseeb Drabu, Chairman, J&K Bank. Speakers included Vidhu Ganjoor

& Buzz Burza on the revival of Kani, Shri Keshaw Prasad on the government’s role, Shri Frank Ames, author of ‘The Kashmir Shawl’ Prof. Dr. M.L. Gulrajani on natural dyeing and Smt. Radha Raina on the role played by merchants, vendors & traders on shawls. A CD on Kani Jamavar designs, photographed and written by Vidhu Ganjoor and Buzz Burza and produced by Mahatta Media Solutions, was screened. The evening session concluded at 8:20 and was followed by dinner.

Shri Keshaw Prasad explained how the government’s role could change if the big design houses and exporters stepped in. The need for such a Kani project that the government has taken up with the Jacquard weaving could be put aside. The large number of

supply, not of shawls but little patterns to be used in fashion garments could bring in a major change in the industry which would be more in line with the present day needs. This was explained in more detail earlier by the designers from Rohit Bal’s studio.

Smt. Radha Raina’s paper on the role of merchants, traders and vendors was a masterpiece. It was a very seriously written and well researched document which was an eye opener to us. It told us of the historical role trade played in  the promotion of this world famous weaving.

It was extremely gracious of our chief guest, Shri Haseeb Drabu to have found the
time for us in his busy schedule. He stayed for the whole duration of the evening Program. Being someone who knows the value and importance of heritage, he took great interest in all of the points that were brought out by the other speakers. In his speech he reiterated his stand on supporting Samvedana and mentioned that he is our sponsor.

Samvedana published a souvenir brochure in honor of the 4th Public Awareness Program.  Shri Haseeb Drabu released it to the gathering.  The brochure contains congratulatory messages and related material.

In his speech, Shri Drabu mentioned that the J&K Bank has a project going on in Zoonimar which Smt Vidhu Ganjoor had mentioned in her speech that Samvedana could run a centre for Kani development there in Zoonimar prior to moving on to Sangam Village. He presented Samvedana a Calendar and Diary brought out this year with the theme of Sozni. Samvedana requested him to a have a year of Kani in the coming year, which matches with our own aims where we could pitch in too.

The following morning tea was served at 9:30 AM followed by a second daylong Workshop cum demonstration on Natural Dyeing of Pashmina conducted by the eminent expert of natural dyeing from the Indian Institute of Technology, Prof Dr M.L.Gulrajani
who is also a Director, M/S ALPS Industries. Assisting was Dr. Srivastava from ALPS Industries. Gulrajani began the session by showing a film. He then went on to explain in detail the vast numbers of part of plants etc. used in natural dying of pashmina. That which plants etc will give which colour and how they get manufactured in large quantities. He spoke at great length about the way other items like mordants etc. should be used.

The workshop cum demonstration continued in the open air Gandhi King Plaza at the IIC. Dr. Srivastava very patiently demonstrated to the artisans the way to dye pashmina yarn. He dealt with all of their questions until they were satisfied. After he finished the workshop and concluded, there arose a demand from the group of dyers for a further demonstration on cotton and silk dying. Dr. Srivastava was happy to demonstrate to them all they wanted and needed to learn and he had brought along the material for this purpose with foresight.  When the demonstration was over Dr Srivastava gave away the dyed pashmina yarn bundles to Samvedana and some to the artisans who wanted to have them.

There were breaks for tea in the morning and afternoon with a lunch being served. The day’s activities were divided between Conference Room I and the Gandhi King Plaza. The day ended at 5 PM.

The whole conference being open to public and members of the IIC, it was well attended by all
heritage and antique Kani shawl lovers.  Personalities like Smt Mohini Menon (wife of Shri Shivshanker Menon), Smt Gulshan Nanda, the Hon. Chairperson Central Cottage Industries, Smt Anu Rajbhandari, an art collector from Paris were among the important people and foreigners who graced the conference.